What I'm going to be doing with this Blogs.

Albino Tangerine Honduran Milk Snake.

Hi guys,

Just wanted to let you know where I want to start focusing. I plan on writing individual care sheets on Bearded Dragons, Leopard Geckos, Iguanas, Crested Geckos, Gargoyles, Uros, Blue Tongue Skink, Savannah Monitor,Black Throat Monitors, Peach Throat Monitos, Black and White Tegus (Colombian and Argentine), Anoles, Amazon Tree Boas, Green Tree Pythons, Emerald Tree Boas, Ball Pythons, Bci (Red Tail Boas), locality boas (Hog Island, Caulker Cay), Brazilian Rainbow Boas, Anaconda, Burmese Python, African Rock Pythons, Reticulated Pythons (and Super Dwarf), Corn Snakes, King Snakes, Milk Snakes, Garter Snakes, Water Snakes, Old World Rat Snakes (Blue Beauty Rat Snake, Cave Dwelling Rat Snake), Red Eye Tree Frogs, Species of Turtles and Tortoises, Pacman Frogs, Bull Frogs, Toads, Mexican Red Knee Tarantulas (smithi), Brazilian Black (pulchra), Pinktoe Tarantulas, Millipedes, etc.

I will also cover incubation methods, caring for feeders; rodents, roaches, meal worms, rats, mice, silk worms, phoenix worms, crickets, etc. As well as housing, enclosure, heating, basking, hydration, treatment of a minor injury in snakes or lizards. Switching snakes to f/t (frozen thawed rodents), tricky eaters, shipping reptiles, housing, proper enclosure size.

I hope to do much more and if there is information or a care sheet you'd like to see, leave a comment and I'll get to it.
      

Emerald Tree Boas Vs. Green Tree Pythons

Northern Emerald Tree Boa

Green Tree Pythons vs. Emerald Tree Boas

Morelia viridis Vs. Corallus caninus












A debate that plagues the reptile community; which is better, which is easier to keep, which is which? Often people confuse the looks of GTPs and ETBs. I'll go over the visual as well as subtle care differences in a GTP and ETB.

You'll hear each crowd that favors one over the other generally give the same response. That their favored tends to be easier to keep, more docile, better eaters etc. While I've kept Emerald Tree Boas longer, I have  Green Tree Pythons as well.

Green Tree Python - Jayapura locale.

Green Tree Pythons are oviparous (egg layers), the hatchlings are more fragile and smaller. Vs. Emerald Tree Boas are ovoviviparous (live birth), their neonates are larger and a bit more hardy.

Green Tree Pythons are known to be a little harder to care for as neonates, but easier to care for once they get a few months old.

As far as handling, Green Tree Python neonates are more fragile, handling isn't really recommended until they get a bit larger (probably a year or more). Vs. Emerald Tree Boas who are larger and stronger at a smaller age, but they still aren't really built for handling at a small age. However; both can be handled as long as you leave them on their perch (yay! for removable perches) and allow them to willingly come off.

Green Tree Pythons have much easier dietary requirements. Every seven to ten days (some feed neonates every five and adults every fourteen). Vs. Emerald Tree Boas who might regurgitate if the prey size is too large, too often, humidity is off or temperatures are off.

Green Tree Pythons require higher temperatures than Emerald Tree Boas. Both require high humidity.

Green Tree Pythons and Emerald Tree Boas both go through an awesome ontogenetic. Locale plays a big role with both ETBs and GTPs. In general, Emerald Tree Boas don't get extra white so, the white blazes/lighting bolts they have as neonates, they have as adults. Whereas Green Tree Pythons are quite unpredictable with color and pattern, even if you go after a certain locale.

Amazon Tree Boa's Impressive Teeth.

 Temperament wise, it's a toss up. Each animal is an individual, cross your fingers for a docile personality. I was half lucky and ended up with a docile Emerald Tree Boa, but some of my Green Tree Pythons are little jerks. Know that all arboreal boids have large teeth though.

They are both arboreal boids though. Requiring places to perch so they can coil around them. This aids in thermoregulation, digestion, etc.




There are structural differences as well. Green Tree Pythons have a short, stocky head, large bumps above their nostrils and a more pronounced spine, along with other things (such as color). The Supralabial pits and head shape of the emerald really give it away and make them the most difference for someone not sure of what they are comparing. The scales on a chondro are much smaller than a emerald too.

Price, they are quite similar in. Locality of the animal plays a large part in price. A neonate of a Northern Emerald Tree Boa will cost around $350-$400. The same with a more common locale of a Green Tree Python. 



 

Information on Different Species of Roaches

Guyana Orange Spotted Cockroach (Blaptica dubia)

Adult Size - 1 1/2-2"

Growth Rate - Very Slow. 4-6 Months to maturity.

Ideal Production Temperatures - 78-95 Degrees.

Mobility - They can flutter, but don't really fly. They do not climb.

Production - Medium Production, Live Birth, Gestation is 28 days.

Sexual Dimorphism - Males have large wings, females have tiny wing stubs.

Lobster Roaches (Naupheta cinerea)

Adult Size - 1 1/4-1 1/2"

Growth Rate - Pretty fast, they reach adulthood at three or so months.

Ideal Production Temperatures - 85-95, the hotter the better production. Some people keep these guys successfully at 100 degrees for high production.

Mobility - They flutter, but do not fly. These guys are very talented climbers.

Production - High Production, They do not give Live Birth, but hold on to their eggs, 30 days Gestation.

Sexual Dimorphism - Females have small white dots and lines pointing to the center of their abdomen.

Madagascar Hissing Cockroach (Gromphadorhina portentosa)

Adult Size - 3-4"

Growth Rate - Pretty fast, 3 months or so to reach adulthood after birth.

Ideal Production Temperatures - 85-96 Degrees

Mobility - Flightless, Capable of Climbing.

Production - Live Birth, Low Production, 30 Day Gestation.

Sexual Dimorphism - Males have "horns" on their prothorax, females are smooth.

Turkistan Roach (Blatta lateralis)

Adult Size - 1-1 1/4"

Growth Rate - Medium, 3-5 Months.

Ideal Production Temperatures - 80-95 degrees.

Mobility - They do not climb, Flightless (but they can Flutter).

Production - Fast, Egg Production, they attach the eggs to various things in the enclosure.

Sexual Dimorphism - Males are light in color with wings, females are red/brown with no wings.

Starting and Caring for a Colony of Feeder Roaches

Starting and Caring for a Colony of Roaches

Several people have asked me to write a general care sheet for roaches, so I'm going to explain what works for me.

I have been breeding Roaches for several years now and I can't begin to express how much easier and cheaper they make keeping invertebrates eating species (Tarantulas, Amphibians, Reptiles, etc). On average, I was spending $20 a week just on crickets. Most looked unhealthy and didn't live long after being purchased. Not to mention they had a slight odor and the noise was barely tolerable at best. Since I made my original purchase of roaches (Which I believe I spent around $100 shipped on a small colony of Lobsters and Dubia), I have yet to purchase one single cricket and the cost of keep my invertebrates eating species has significantly dropped. Not to mention Roaches are one of the most nutritious feeder insects for Invertebrates, Monitors, Bearded Dragons, Leopard Geckos, and all other insectivorous Reptiles and Amphibians.


The Right Enclosure.

Style - You will need a Colored Sterilite, Rubbermaid or similar Bin. Do not use Clear Plastic as it lets too much light in and for shyer species this can hurt production. I personally prefer Rubbermaid Roughneck for the style.

Size - This is dependent on the size of the colony. A exceptionally large colony might need a 54 Gallon tote, or you can split the colony into two smaller tubs. For a small starter Colony, an equivalent of a ten gallon will suffice.

Ventilation.

Open Lidded - I leave the lids off of my roaches. Ventilation is vital and there's nothing better for the air flow than leaving the lids off. That being said, precautions need to be taken to prevent escapes.

Screening - Cut a square hole in the center of the lid, you can do this with a utility knife or anything else you might have that will cut through the plastic. Be careful that you have the same number of fingers when you are done as when you started. After cutting the hole, cut the mesh screen a little larger than the hole you cut in the top. Once you have finished making your cuts, you can use several methods to attach the aluminum screen mesh on to the lid. Most people use a Hot Glue Gun. Other options to attach the screen are zip ties, duct tape, etc. Anything to make a tight seal.

Preventing Escapes with Wall Climbing Species.

With screening the enclosure or using the open lidded method, you have the same issues of possible escapes. Most Roaches kept as feeders are tropical and can not survive in a home climate for long, but no one really wants these guys scampering around there house. You can use Olive Oil, Vaseline or special made roach barriers on the sides of the tote (around the first 1/3 of the tote will work perfectly).

Substrate.

Bare - I highly suggest not using substrate. It is hard to clean the roach bin when using substrate and even harder to separate the nymphs from the substrate. Not to mention substrate is a breeding ground of bacteria and mold which can be fatal to your colony.

Substrate - If you do use substrate, make sure it is sterile. Depending on the species, you can use moss, vermiculite, eco earth, etc.

Decorations and Other Materials.

Egg Crates - These work good because they are cheap and easy to clean.

Paper Towel/Toilet Paper Rolls - These are pretty much free and it has to be considered as a type of recycling to use them. The Roaches love to hide in them, but it can be difficult to get them out of the rolls come time to clean them.

Cork Tiles - Makes a nice and clean way to build a roach motel. Take several cork tiles and drill four holes (one in each corner). Run the four large bolts in each corner and divide the cork tiles with bolts. When you are ready to remove roaches to feed off, use a paintbrush or forceps to grab a hold of them.

Water Sources.

Water - Place a dish in the Roaches enclosure that is shallow enough that you will not lose any to drowning. A piece of cork bark in the dish will assure they can escape if they fall in. Make sure you change the water often.

Anionic Polyacrylamide/Water Gel - Probably the easiest, but costs money. You can buy the dry Anionic Polyacrylamide crystals and make your own Water Gel much cheaper than you can buy pre-made stuff for. Several online vendors carry both, you can buy the Water Gel pre-made at a local pet store.

Sponges, Cloth, Water Pouches - All breed bacteria and have to be disposed of often. I do not suggest using them.

None - That's right, some people do not offer a specific water source. Instead they offer fresh fruit and vegetables.

Heating Methods.

Flexwatt, Heating Pads, Heat Tape - My preferred method. Easy to use, attach to a dimmer/thermostat and set to the temperature that is correct for the species.

Heat Lamp - Do not use a regular light bulb. Roaches do not like great amounts of light. If you are going to use a heat lamp, make sure it's a red/night bulb or a ceramic heat emitter and be sure it's not touching/overheating the plastic or screen.

Food List.

Pre-made Roach Chow - Several vendors sell it, some is more expensive than others. It's the easiest option, but not cost efficient for someone with a lot of roaches.

Making your own Roach Chow - I usually just blend a little bit of every healthy dry good in the house. I use a high quality dog food, oatmeal, Kashi Brand Cereal, Total, small amounts of Ferret and Cat food, Harlan Teklad Rodent Block, Fish Flakes, Clean and Baked Oak Leaves, etc. Just throw a bit of everything in the blender and blend to dust. I place a dish of the dry blend in with the roaches at all times. However, as a special treat, I'll add water and make a mash for them. They seem to love this, but remove any leftovers.

Vegetables and Fruit - I like to give my roaches fresh fruits and vegetables. I offer Citrus (Especially Oranges), Apples, Dark Leafy Greens, Pears, Zucchini, Green Beans, Squash, etc. Most fruits and vegetables can be offered, but some less often than others. I only offer Bananas, Grapes, Strawberries, etc. as a treat.

Cleaning and Maintenance.

Roaches don't require much maintenance other than feeding and providing a hydration source.

Cleaning - You will need to clean the enclosure every so often. I like to do a quick spot clean once a month (pick up dead roaches, etc) and a total makeover once every 3-4 months. I start by setting up the clean tub for them to be moved into. Depending on the species, this includes adding egg crates/paper towel rolls, and a roach barrier. I then remove all decorations in the old enclosure one by one and empty them into the clean tub. With the egg crates, a light tap against the side of the new tub will dislodge most of them. Repeat this process to remove them all. The same idea works for the old paper towel rolls, tapping them against the clean enclosure works well. If you use the Cork Tiles, Just remove the nuts and bolts. After that, I'll place a a few saucers of their favorite food in the old enclosure. Once I see that most of the adults are piling on, I move the saucers to the new enclosure. To get as many nymphs as possible, I pour all of the waste (Dead roaches, feces, etc) of the old enclosure into a tub or ziplock bag. Make sure it is escape proof and place a couple of small pieces of egg crate or a couple of toilet paper rolls at the top of the tub/bag. The nymphs will keep crawling on/in them to hide and you can shake them into a clean enclosure. You won't get them all, but this method seems to save most of them.

Breeding and Overproduction.

Keep their temperatures on the warmer side for the species and feed them good and they'll take care of things all on their own. On a special note, I have heard from several breeders that offering Oranges often bring production rates significantly up. If you find yourself producing too many roaches, offer a little less food and drop the temperatures to the lower end.